The 3000 Forum
Additional Fused Circuits
Posted by nwbaxter66
nwbaxter66
Nick Baxter
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Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 20, 2019 06:16 PM
Joined 17 years ago
4 Posts
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I am a very new 3000 owner, just starting to find my way around the car.
I am planning to add some additional fused circuits as well as adding relays et al for the headlamps.
But I don’t want to create a total wiring mess.
Where does one “hide” additional wiring in the 3000 Mark IIIs? Is there a specific area that lends itself to the actiivity?
Thanks for any advice.
Nick
I am planning to add some additional fused circuits as well as adding relays et al for the headlamps.
But I don’t want to create a total wiring mess.
Where does one “hide” additional wiring in the 3000 Mark IIIs? Is there a specific area that lends itself to the actiivity?
Thanks for any advice.
Nick
Nov 21, 2019 12:54 AM
Joined 12 years ago
1,139 Posts
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Hi Nick,
There are 2 approaches that are taken to fuse critical electrical components and circuits.
Additional Fuse Box:
Many have chosen to implement a centralized approach by adding an additional fuse box and either installed it on the fire wall within close proximity to the original 2-fuse box or under the dash within the cabin. In both cases, new wire would need to be added to direct the circuit through the box to achieve protection. Depending on the number of circuits you want to fuse will determine the amount of fuses and how close the tap into each circuit is to the box will determine the additional wiring and its routing. Keep I mind that even unfused circuits access electrical power from or near the fuse box or voltage regulator, however, these feeds may not provide just provide power to 1 critical circuit and you may want to refine and separate critical components for individual protection.
In-Line Fusing:
To diminish the addition of wiring, others like myself, have chosen to install individual in-line fuses on the specific circuit critical to protect. This decentralized approach has the benefit of no additional wiring, no limit on number or size, and the ability to hide the fuse for a more original look. Although this allows and requires you to choose what and where to fuse, however, it does require you to get sufficient access to the circuit to solder in the fuse holder. Although you are not restricted to number fuses installed, their deployment would likely be applied throughout the car and for quick access over an extended period will require the creation of a Fuse Directory stating circuit/component covered, fuse size, and location at a minimum. As one that admits going overboard on the number of fuses installed over the years (16, including the original 2), the locations and coverage could be easily lost if it were not for my directory.
Although installing an additional fuse box would be most convenient when installing new harnesses or as part of a rebuild, I see the addition of in-line fuse installation as most convenient in a fully wired and completed Healey.
Good Luck,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
There are 2 approaches that are taken to fuse critical electrical components and circuits.
Additional Fuse Box:
Many have chosen to implement a centralized approach by adding an additional fuse box and either installed it on the fire wall within close proximity to the original 2-fuse box or under the dash within the cabin. In both cases, new wire would need to be added to direct the circuit through the box to achieve protection. Depending on the number of circuits you want to fuse will determine the amount of fuses and how close the tap into each circuit is to the box will determine the additional wiring and its routing. Keep I mind that even unfused circuits access electrical power from or near the fuse box or voltage regulator, however, these feeds may not provide just provide power to 1 critical circuit and you may want to refine and separate critical components for individual protection.
In-Line Fusing:
To diminish the addition of wiring, others like myself, have chosen to install individual in-line fuses on the specific circuit critical to protect. This decentralized approach has the benefit of no additional wiring, no limit on number or size, and the ability to hide the fuse for a more original look. Although this allows and requires you to choose what and where to fuse, however, it does require you to get sufficient access to the circuit to solder in the fuse holder. Although you are not restricted to number fuses installed, their deployment would likely be applied throughout the car and for quick access over an extended period will require the creation of a Fuse Directory stating circuit/component covered, fuse size, and location at a minimum. As one that admits going overboard on the number of fuses installed over the years (16, including the original 2), the locations and coverage could be easily lost if it were not for my directory.
Although installing an additional fuse box would be most convenient when installing new harnesses or as part of a rebuild, I see the addition of in-line fuse installation as most convenient in a fully wired and completed Healey.
Good Luck,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Nov 21, 2019 07:52 AM
Joined 8 years ago
351 Posts
|
Hi Nick,
I've been thinking about this, too, and have been considering a few ideas.
Under-hood, there's some "real estate" in front of the brake/clutch reservoir, and on the passenger side behind the horns and above the brake booster (if you have one.) My biggest question was where to get the power, both for accessories and for service equipment. It's always been a little tough for me to a get temporary power connection for things like a timing light or dwell / tach under the bonnet, since I have a modern starter, which has the connection to the power cable from the battery under the starter. Creating an accessible junction point on that side would be straightforward.
To me, most obvious location for additional power distribution, as well as a fused distribution box and driving light relays, seems to be on the starter side. It's the terminus of a major part of the wiring harness, and additional wires can piggyback on the existing wire pathway. Not hidden, but pretty straightforward.
For the fog lights, I bought a pre-made Hella harness with relays and inline fuses. I've seen a couple of simple junctions or fuse boxes that might work, too.
I've been thinking about this, too, and have been considering a few ideas.
Under-hood, there's some "real estate" in front of the brake/clutch reservoir, and on the passenger side behind the horns and above the brake booster (if you have one.) My biggest question was where to get the power, both for accessories and for service equipment. It's always been a little tough for me to a get temporary power connection for things like a timing light or dwell / tach under the bonnet, since I have a modern starter, which has the connection to the power cable from the battery under the starter. Creating an accessible junction point on that side would be straightforward.
To me, most obvious location for additional power distribution, as well as a fused distribution box and driving light relays, seems to be on the starter side. It's the terminus of a major part of the wiring harness, and additional wires can piggyback on the existing wire pathway. Not hidden, but pretty straightforward.
For the fog lights, I bought a pre-made Hella harness with relays and inline fuses. I've seen a couple of simple junctions or fuse boxes that might work, too.
Attachments:
rusty1c
Peter D
|
Nov 21, 2019 10:21 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 9 years ago
1,792 Posts
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Nick and Chris,
I bought this fuse block that a Healey guy down in the southern California makes. It also comes with the wiring diagram. It fits in place of the 2 fuse original fuse block using the original mounting holes. I haven't installed it yet but I think it is more along the lines of splitting out and fusing the individual circuits than it is for the addition of more circuits. His name and phone number at at the bottom right of the circuit drawing.
Pete
I bought this fuse block that a Healey guy down in the southern California makes. It also comes with the wiring diagram. It fits in place of the 2 fuse original fuse block using the original mounting holes. I haven't installed it yet but I think it is more along the lines of splitting out and fusing the individual circuits than it is for the addition of more circuits. His name and phone number at at the bottom right of the circuit drawing.
Pete
rusty1c
Peter D
|
Nov 21, 2019 10:23 AM
Top Contributor
Joined 9 years ago
1,792 Posts
|
nwbaxter66
Nick Baxter
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Nov 21, 2019 10:31 AM
Joined 17 years ago
4 Posts
|
Most helpful, really like the offering from the guy in CA, elegant solution and would seem to add some security around the existing installation.
I think that I am going to crawl around inside the car and the engine bay and look for real estate.
Drawing power from the Starter Motor seems to make the most sense and installing a new distribution box for the amended wiring (AdvancedAutoWire have a nice one that adds four circuits (2 switched, 2 always on) and a driving light circuit) would give me what I need.
I like the headlamp relays that pull from the existing wiring as that makes it totally reversible.(Painless Performance).
Appreciate the advice and guidance.
Nick
I think that I am going to crawl around inside the car and the engine bay and look for real estate.
Drawing power from the Starter Motor seems to make the most sense and installing a new distribution box for the amended wiring (AdvancedAutoWire have a nice one that adds four circuits (2 switched, 2 always on) and a driving light circuit) would give me what I need.
I like the headlamp relays that pull from the existing wiring as that makes it totally reversible.(Painless Performance).
Appreciate the advice and guidance.
Nick
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