Hot and cold, raw and cooked, soft and crisp: these are winter salads with bite
Potatoes, dressed warm from the pan, tossed with smoked fish and capers. Rainbow-stemmed chard with a sauce of coconut and spices. Crisp winter roots and hot sausages in a dressing of mustard and cream. Cabbage and fennel with apples and blue cheese, or fried aubergines tossed with rose harissa and feta. These are a few of the salads that are best suited to putting on the table when the weather is cold.
I am not pedantic about whether a salad’s ingredients or its dressing are warm or cold. To me, the best are a thoughtful mixture of raw and cooked, warm and cold, and soft and crisp. What I do like is for a winter salad to have a certain crunch – that texture can come from fennel, frisee or apple, raw white or red cabbage, toasted nuts and croutons, or from potatoes that have been fried till crisp. Continue reading…
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