A new $12-buck bottle of bubbly hits shelves in October, becoming the least expensive Spanish sparkling at the LCBO. The liquor giant seems to think it will be a hit straight of the gate because it bought 2,800 12-bottle cases of it for Ontario despite it being a brand new product. That’s 33,600 bottles of wine, which is a lot. So, is it any good?
Yes actually.
It shines a pale straw yellow, exudes aromas of grapefruit drizzled with honey, and streams over the palate like liquid light shot through with refreshing effervescence and laced with a light kiss of sweetness. I score it 92 points because it offers more concentration, fruit purity and balance than the vast majority of sparkling wine under $15 let alone $12.
I’m talking about the NV Toro Bravo Secco from Cataluña (LCBO 16191 $11.95), which arrives at the LCBO shortly.
“Initially, Toro Bravo Secco was expected to be released at the end of September, but COVID and a strike at the Montreal port have caused shipping delays,” says Alex Patinios, president and owner of Dionysus Wines & Spirits. “I understand the LCBO expects bottles to hit stores mid-October.”
Most inexpensive sparkling wine is dire, which is why a delicious sparkling that only costs $11.95 is worth knowing about.
To give perspective, the NV Yellow Tail Bubbles (LCBO 229039 $14.95) is absolutely not worth the money. The nose is almost mute. The barely-there aromas of lemon lead to a clean entry that’s off-dry and well-balanced but there’s very little flavour—maybe a touch of lemon and apricot. In short, it tastes diluted. And the finish is short and bland.
Same holds true for the NV Yellow Tail Bubbles Rosé (LCBO 229047 $14.95), which also lacks aroma and flavour. Suggestions of candied citrus and strawberry are at play, but they are entirely void of any significant concentration. The wine is clean, crisp and off-dry but overall disappointingly diluted and short.
And of course some really inexpensive bubblies are ridiculously sweet such as NV Andrès Baby Duck (LCBO 1123 $12.60/1500mL). With 48 g/L of sugar and just seven per cent alcohol, this fizz tastes more like cream soda and liquified cotton candy than wine.
So the NV Toro Bravo Secco is a bit of unicorn.
It’s made from the same grape varieties as Cava, Spain’s traditional sparkling wine—Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo. But it tastes nothing like the popular Brut Cavas we see here in Ontario—which tend to be drier and far more restrained.
Consider NV Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut Cava (LCBO 21695 $14.95), which by the way is one of the few sub-$15 bubblies I’d recommend. This sparkling exudes quiet aromas of green apple and salt before washing over the palate with racy, restrained flavours of sea spray, white grapefruit and lemon zest. It’s a style that’s marvellous if you like mineral-driven wines with understated fruit. And it works beautifully with simple seafood such as pan-seared scallops or even a handful of salted almonds. Score: 90
Another distinction between NV Toro Bravo Secco and Cava is how it’s made. All Cava—like Champagne—undergoes a second fermentation in bottle, called the “traditional method.” This laborious method can impart considerable complexity to the final wine, which is especially evident in top bottlings of Cava that come into market from time to time through Vintages releases.
NV Toro Bravo Secco on the other hand gets its fizz through the more economical “tank method.” Like the name implies, it undergoes a secondary fermentation in bulk by adding yeast to a large tank of wine. Prosecco uses this method as well. After all, it’s cost-effective.
Many popular Proseccos on shelf in Ontario are about as fruit-froward and sweet as the new NV Toro Bravo Secco. NV Martini Prosecco DOC and NV Villa Sandi Prosecco DOC for instance both rack 17g/L of sugar—the same amount as is found in the new Spanish sparkler. But Prosecco tastes pear-like, the characteristic flavour of the Glera grape from which it’s made. Prosecco must, by law, be made from at least 85 per cent Glera.
Some Proseccos are quite dry, of course. The very lovely NV Bottega Vino dei Poeti Prosecco DOC (LCBO 897702 $15.95) unspools on the palate with elegant tree-fruit appeal and almond-floral undertones. The touch of sweetness—12g/L of sugar—just polishes the fruit so the result is a well-balanced yet dry-tasting wine. Score: 91.
I say dry-tasting because sugar is never the whole story. Sugar balances a wine’s acidity to create a pleasant drinking experience. Since sparkling wine is always high in acidity, a bit of residual sugar often improves it—even in fancier cuvées.
My favourite NV Champagne for instance, the NV Louis Roederer Brut Premier from France (LCBO 268771 $76.95) has 12g/L of sugar. This deliciously delicate, dry-tasting blend of around 40 per cent Pinot Noir, 40 per cent Chardonnay, and 20 per cent Pinot Meunier exudes gorgeous aromas of flavours of tarte tatin and marzipan. It’s lifted, lit-tasting, and long. And is a wonderful way to mark a special moment—especially with a little smoked salmon mousse and slices of toasted baguette. But at that price, it’s a special occasion pour. Score: 93
The thing about sparkling wine is this: A glass of bubbles easily elevates a moment. And in times like these, that has value.
Correction — Oct. 13, 2020: This article was edited to correct the spelling of Pinot Meunier.
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com
To join the conversation set a first and last name in your user profile.
Sign in or register for free to join the Conversation